PAST OFFERINGS: DOE BAY WINE CLUB
May 7th 2020: Domaine Marquis d'Angerville and Domaine des Comtes Lafon
These are two legendary (As in, many think Dominique Lafon is the greatest white winemaker in the world kind of legendary) houses in Burgundy that I've had the pleasure of working with and visiting over the years. It's not worth it to attempt to extoll their virtues. Many others have and it's late on a Wednesday night. Please see Domaine des Comtes Lafon and Domaine Marquis d'Angerville for background. Or call me on my cell and I'll ramble on.
When you're a sommelier and you walk downstairs (..let me show you my cellar!) and see these labels you smile and breathe a sigh of relief because you know you're in good company (We've seen a lot of funny cellars over the years). Extremely rare and lasting for years these producers will stand the test of time. If you're considering building your own cellar look at them as Burgundy cornerstones. If you already have a cellar and need to restore some balance (anyone skewed towards Cabernet Sauvignon?), or diversify, here you go. If you want to invest these are blue chips.
How's your old Cayuse, Leonetti and Quilceda hanging on? Better start drinking! Speaking of drinking I enjoyed a '78 d'Angerville Clos des Ducs a couple years ago and it was singing. '90 Comtes des Lafon Perrieres? Yum. The '14 and '17 vintages won't last as long as those referenced above but they will reward your patience and bring (some of you) great joy.
The total number of bottles available in Washington State is listed after each wine. First come, first served. In order to encourage, and thank you wonderful people, I have marked each bottle up exactly $15 over the price I'm paying for it. The price will increase for any orders that come in after Sunday. Please email or call me if you have any questions about the wines.
Domines des Comtes Lafon
2014 Clos De La Baronne - $155 (17 btls)
2014 Clos De La Baronne 1.5 Liter - $315 (2 btls)
2014 Meursault Porusots 1er Cru - $315 (12 btls)
Domaine Marquis d'Angerville
2017 Mersault 'Santenots' - $154 (12 btls)
2017 Volnay 1er Cru - $110 (15 btls)
2017 Clos des Angles 1er Cru - $135 (3 btls)
2017 Fremiet 1er Cru - $144 (20 btls)
2017 Champans 1er Cru - $170 (6 btls)
2017 Caillerets 1er Cru - $170 (1 btl)
2017 Clos du Ducs 1er Cru - $240 (24 btls)
MAY 4th, 2020
SPAIN! CHAPTER 1
MAY 4th, 2020 - SPAIN! CHAPTER 1
Good morning! A new month, more fun. I've been doing a fair amount of hanging around the house. How about you? I'll admit that I'm pretty excited to start frequenting restaurants again. How about you? I quite enjoy traveling abroad. Ok, that's enough. The weather is starting to come around, instead of golfing I go slicing and each morning I stroll outside to see how much my little vegetables have grown. Yesterday I spent three hours hiking/hunting for morels and found...one. Winning! If you missed my lengthy ramble on Spain earlier this week consider yourself lucky. If you'd like to venture further down the rabbit hole click here
I'm calling this "Chapter 1" because it's only the first of many future wine club offerings from Spain. And also because I realized last night that aside from one lone sherry the entirety of the wines are from the North of Spain. We're especially heavy in Rioja. I'm not exactly sure why but likely due to my love affair with the region. Sometimes love is good! That and outside of two memorable benders in Barcelona (I flew down for a weekend several years ago and saw the Pixies, The National and FKA Twigs at the Primavera Sound Festival) I've spent most of my time in the Northern half of the country over the last decade. There are ten wines available and my hope is that there's a little something for everyone. You likely know Tempranillo but will shortly encounter some funky grapes like Maturana Tinto, Hondarrabi Zura and Godello. I encourage you to push your boundaries. The world has gone a little crazy, what are you waiting for? Please don't sleep on the Sherry.
The picture above is one of my favorites. In my early 20's I worked at Esquin Wine Merchants in Seattle where I met a distributor named John Griffin. Great guy. I mentioned that I was going to be in Spain and he set me up with an appointment at Santiago Ruiz. I rented a car (with my Australian buddy playing co-pilot and photographer) and cruised off in search of the tiny estate. The proprietor Rosa was a delight, the wines were spectacular and I always wonder what on earth I was pontificating about when the picture was snapped. I've carried Rosa's wines on my wine lists and retail shelves for the last fifteen years. Wines tell a story. Speaking of stories I asked some of the distributors and importers to share their stories and tasting notes of the wines they represent. Their thoughts appear in quotations throughout the notes below. Thanks everyone!
Finally, at the bottom we have a special treat. You can order some famous Spanish cheeses and...wait for it...Iberico ham! Yum. Treat yourself.
Buen provecho.
Enjoy!
These wines will be available for pick-up or delivery on Orcas beginning Thursday May 8th and for shipping on Friday May 9th. The next wine club will be sent out May 20th so we'll be focusing on these wines for a bit.
THE WINES:
ROSÉ: 2018 Hirutza Txacolina Rosado - $20.70 ($23.00)
WHITE: 2018 Hirutza Txacolina - $20.70 ($23.00)
WHITE: 2018 Santiago Ruiz Blanco - $24.30 ($27.00)
WHITE: 2016 Raul Perez "Ultreia" Godello - $26.10 ($29.00)
RED: 2018 Raul Perez "Ultreia St. Jacques" Red - $20.70 ($23.00)
RED: 2017 Ad Libitum Maturana Tinta - $20.70 ($23.00)
RED: 2010 Bodegas Ontañon "Reserva" - $21.60 ($24.00)
RED: 2015 Pago de Los Cappellanes "Crianza" - $32.40 ($36.00)
RED: 2009 La Rioja Alta "Gran Reserva 904" - $69.30 ($77.00)
SHERRY: NV Lustau "Peninsula" Palo Cortado - $24.30 ($27.00)
(The first number is the 10% off 6+ mixed bottle price)
1) Hiruzta
This estate is just east of San Sebastián almost on the border of France right in the middle of Basque Country. You may remember Txacolina from our first offering, the Ameztoi "Rubentis," and it's a wonderful spring wine. Fresh, lightly fizzy and lower in alcohol it's perfect for this time of year. It's exciting to be able to offer both the Blanco and Rosado, below are tasting notes from the estate. These wines are great on their own, with salads or lighter seafood.
ROSÉ: 2018 Hirutza Txacolina Rosado - $20.70 ($23.00)"Here we have a fresh, contemporary-style rosé Txakoli made from the Hondarrabi Zuri and Hondarrabi Beltz grapes! Redcurrant-pink color with rich aromas of red and black fruits, such as strawberries, blackberries and black currants, over a citrus background and fine vegetable notes. Very fresh in the mouth with a balanced acidity accentuated by a hint of carbonic gas, offering a pleasing palate and a long, aromatic finish."
WHITE: 2018 Hirutza Txacolina - $20.70 ($23.00)"Clean and bright. Pale yellow colour with greenish glints against the light. When poured into the glass from a certain height, reveals the presence of tiny carbonation bubbles typically associated with this type of txakoli. Intense aromas of white (pear and apple), citrus (grapefruit) and tropical (pineapple and passion fruit) fruits on the nose, enveloped in the perfume of white flowers (orange blossom), all accentuated by the subtle effervescence of natural carbon dioxide gas. Balanced and fresh in the mouth, it has quite a sharp taste with well-integrated acidity. Agreeable on the palate with hints of citrus and tropical fruits in the aftertaste. Long, aromatic finish."
2) Santiago Ruiz
As I mentioned this estate is dear to my heart. This blend incorporates all five native white grapes (Albariño, Loureiro, Godello, Treixadura, Caiño Blanco) from the region resulting in a balanced and memorable wine. "Santiago Ruiz was a visionary, decades ahead of his time. In 1978 at the age of 70, retired from his everyday work obligations, he decided to devote his newfound free time to his real passion by following the tradition of his ancestors (His maternal grandfather was one of the first winemakers and leabellers in Galicia, founding his own bodega in 1860). A stout defender of the quality of native grapes, Santiago Ruiz became an ambassador for Rias Baixas’ wines, traveling the length and breadth of Spain (mostly on foot), with the clear objective of heightening awareness of Rias Baixas among the most select restaurateurs and opinion leaders of the early 1980’s."
WHITE: 2018 Santiago Ruiz Blanco - $24.30 ($27.00)"Clear and bright yellow. Intense and complex nose showcasing aromas of fruit (apple, pear, apricot), herbs (lemon verbena, aniseed) and mineral notes. Full bodied, its fruity complexity returns combined with wet-stone minerality on the palate prior to a long and crisp finish." I think this with ceviche, crab or that rockfish recipe that Avery made with the Vermentino would be epic.
3) Raul Perez
"Nestled in the rolling hills of the Bierzo region, the tiny hamlet of Valtuille de Abajo (population 82) is home to one of the best winemakers in the world. Raul Perez has been working his collection of miniscule vineyard plots of ancient vines since he was 22. He is a visionary who's made it his life's work to bring acclaim to his region by continuing his family's over 300 years of work." Really though, these wines have become some of the most exclusive, interesting and popular wines in the country. His Godello is full of white peach and mineral notes and the Mencia blend has described as tasting "between a Pinot Noir and Northern Rhone Syrah." These are his entry level offerings and if you enjoy them I can start bringing in his single vineyards.
WHITE: 2016 Raul Perez "Ultreia" Godello - $26.10 ($29.00)Godello, the major white variety of Bierzo is a variety that when left on the vine too long can become blowsy and overripe. Raul's focus for his white is to maintain acidity and freshness, so he picks only just at ripeness, resulting in wines that struggle to reach 12% of alcohol, but which are bright and crisp. Lush oily dense full body with good acidity. On the palate, a melange of apple, warm white spices, hints of ripe grapefruit, soft ginger, petrol hints & quince. Deep, complex, full. 92 points, Wine Advocate: "There is a new white from Godello, as demand is growing, and they sourced the grapes from a vineyard that produced the first 2016 Ultreia Godello. It's a north-facing plot that is very cold, and the grapes, picked at the end of the harvest, were only 12% alcohol. It fermented in 300-liter barrels and one 2,500-liter oak vat. It feels super young and undeveloped, with an austere nose and a very tasty palate with superb acidity. 7,000 bottles."
RED: 2018 Raul Perez "Ultreia St. Jacques" Red - $20.70 ($23.00)Valtuille de Abajo is one of the many stops along the Pilgrimage of St. James (St. Jacques) which crosses the north of Spain and ends in Galicia at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. The name, Ultreia, recalls the pilgrim's greeting of "onward." Mostly Mencia, the major red of Bierzo, there is also Trousseau and Alicante Bouschet in the mix. Red fruits and mint. Gives an elegant impression due to its vivid acidity. Aromas of ripe red cherry, blackberry, blueberry, violet, dry herb, toast and vanila. High acidity, medium plus tannin and medium alcohol. Long and raspy finish.
93 points, Wine Advocate: "From old vineyards from different soils in Valtuille and Villadecanes fermented in stainless steel and oak vats with part of full clusters and matured in used barriques for one year. It's produced in a fresh and very drinkable way. This is one of the best values from Bierzo and Spain, and a great introduction to Bierzo. It's a more serious wine than what the wine was when it was first produced, fresh and elegant. It's very reliable and a great value. There are some 100,000 bottles that were filled in two production runs." (This is the review for the 2017, we are offering the 2018 which was just released)
4) Bodega Juan Carlos Sancha
This is a new producer for me and a most unusual grape. It's grown in small quantities in Rioja but very rarely did I see it at bars there. I love offering grapes like this because I could offer Chardonnay and Cabernet every single day, for my whole life, and never run out. Drinking the Maturana Tinta grape is an experience you're just not going to find many other places. If you like Syrah and Malbec, or even if you don't and just like red wine, give this a shot. Very organic, very interesting and it would be most delightful paired with the cheeses below.
RED: 2017 Ad Libitum Maturana Tinta - $20.70 ($23.00)"Coming from Juan Carlos Sancha’s organic vineyards in Rioja Alta- this unique Maturana Tinta has high colour intensity and anthocyanin content, high acidity and medium alcohol content. Sensorially, it stands out for its purple colour, typical varietal aromas of green black fruit flavors with balsamic and spicy notes, a well-structured mouth with notable acidity and tartness and medium persistence. It is not grown anywhere else in the world, making it a very interesting grape to support the uniqueness, differentiation and diversity of Rioja wines."
5) Bodegas Ontañon
This is from my former employers, friends and confidants. In the future we'll do a full offering of their wines but for this week I chose the 2010 Reserva. This is their current release. It's 10 years old. It's $21.60. Think about that. It's hard to comprehend. Many of you have been enjoying their Crianza in our shop and this is a great segue to their next tier. That touch of Graciano goes a long ways and you can continue to age this wine for years to come. Wild. For more than five generations the Perez-Cuevas family has owned and run the winery in the heart of Rioja. Slowly, over time, the family has amassed land holdings and has become the third largest owners in the eastern part of the region of Rioja Baja. They are great people.
RED: 2010 Bodegas Ontañon "Reserva" - $21.60 ($24.00)Extensive family holdings allow Ontañón to hold wine for extended aging. All Rioja Reservas must be aged for a total of three years with at least one year in oak and six months in bottles. Ontañón's Reserva doubles the years in oak and has been in bottle ever since. Mostly Tempranillo, the region's preeminent variety, they add a touch of Graciano to the blend.
91 points, Wine Spectator: "This red is fresh and lively, with a core of black cherry and plum accented by licorice, tobacco and mineral notes. The tannins are light but firm, the balsamic acidity bright, focusing the polished texture through the smoky finish."
6) Pago de Los Cappellanes
This is a a big, intense wine from the Ribera del Duero region which is Southwest of Rioja. This is the style I often recommend to those accustomed to drinking robust wines from California and Washington, especially if the grape of preference is Cabernet Sauvignon. They have dark color, pronounced oak, firm tannins and ripe fruit. What separates them is their minerality and earth notes. These are a great introduction to Spanish wines if you're in the camp above and want to broaden your horizons. "Drive north from Madrid for about 2 hours and you will find yourself in one of the myriad Roman-era viticultural hot spots for producing Spain's beloved Tempranillo. Ribera del Duero is arid, high elevation and has huge diurnal (day/night temperature swings) that makes the thick skinned Tempranillo grape struggle and thrive...sort of like a Spartan child. This wine is made organically, with minimal additions, unfined & unfiltered. It is most definitely ready to drink right now but possesses the structure and natural acidity to age comfortably for a few years. Pair this with hearty fare, especially grilled and roasted red meat and strong cheeses."
RED: 2015 Pago de Los Cappellanes "Crianza" - $32.40 ($36.00)92 points Wine & Spirits: "With toasty oak and firm tannins playing supporting roles, this wine emphasizes flavors of black cherries and pomegranate. This is a selection of tempranillo from vines with a minimum age of 30 years, on predominantly calcareous clay soils."
7) La Rioja Alta
La Rioja Alta is arguably the most famous estate in Rioja which is arguable the most famous region in Spain. That's pretty special. This is a special bottle that will age for decades if you want. Or, with the miracles of decanting and two day shipping, you can open it to enjoy this weekend. Whenever people are working on building cellars or looking for bottles to lay down the wines from La Rioja Alta come up. It's pretty easy to spend money and find Washington and California cellar worthy wines but they're just small children compared to the great estates and wines of Rioja. These are historical and timeless. Anyhow, I think this is a real treat. Eric Asimov recently wrote in the New York Times "This was a lovely wine now, but I think it will get much more interesting over the next 20 years" and I agree. You can drink it someday and remember the year 2020. An odd year.
RED: 2009 La Rioja Alta "Gran Reserva 904" - $69.30 ($77.00)Outstandingly intense, cherry-red; clean and bright. The nose reveals a bouquet of great aromatic complexity, with balsamic notes of vanilla, toasted caramel, mint chocolate, tea leaves and cinnamon that gives way to elegant notes of stewed fruits and prunes. Creamy, well-balanced mouthfeel, with a harmonious freshness and smooth, well-tamed tannins that leave an elegant, complex finish. 97 points James Suckling: "This is a driven and super tight Gran Reserva with dark berries and hints of spice and cedar. A spicy red-pepper undertone and some dried flowers. Full to medium body, integrated tannins and a superb finish. A great wine."
8) Lustau
Sherry is the original weird wine. Long before our current world of floating particles, spoilage yeasts gone wild and fermentations in lawnmower tanks there was sherry. So much strangeness here. We will do a wine club someday, when the coffers are full and there's no need to sell, and feature nothing but this magical drink. Wine professionals have been trying to get you to drink more Sherry for decades. The mentors taught us and the crusade continues. Ok. This is the coolest wine in the mix today. You can enjoy it as an aperitif or digestif. You can pair it with food or splash a bit in your pan. It's dry. But rich. It will last a long time in your refrigerator once opened. Some of you will love it. Some of you will not. It's roughly the cost of a cocktail and tip in a swanky bar and you'll get .750ml to enjoy for nights to come. Please try it?
SHERRY: NV Lustau "Peninsula" Palo Cortado - $24.30 ($27.00)"This is not your grandmother's Sherry...unless she's from Jerez and is an Epicurean ninja. Fun etymological side note: the name sherry is actually derived from English speakers being unable to pronounce Jerez (pronounced herez) properly. Over the centuries, the name stuck. This is dry and complex, with tons of nuttiness, cacao and powerful concentration. Think amontillado meets oloroso. Pair this with rich, fatty foods like foie gras, consommé or other delights with lots of seasoning. Gumbo? Steak? Sure, get weird. 100% Palomino." 96 points, Wine Advocate: "A mind-blowing sherry is the non-vintage Palo Cortado Peninsula Solera Reserva. Like all Lustau sherries except for the East India, it is made from the Palomino varietal. A dry, crisp, full-throttle, intense sherry offering incredibly complex, nutty aromas, it represents a style that falls between the Amontillado and the more oxidized, heavier Oloroso."
Spanish Snacks!
Pick some of these up to pair with your wines and siestas. The Iberico is a super special order item and will be available for pickup or delivery beginning Friday May 8th. It is not sliced and we recommend that you have a very sharp knife on hand. You must order these by 2pm on Tuesday. Thank you! (I'm sorry we do not ship these items).
Garrotxa, Goats Milk Cheese, Catalonia (.5lb) - $20
Manchego, Sheeps Milk Cheese, La Mancha (.5lb) - $16
Olympia Provisions Chorizo Rioja Salami - $13
Dehesa Cordobesa Cabacero de Bellota Iberico (1.54lb) - $95
Castelvetrano Olives, Sicily - $6 (Long story...)
April 30th 2020: Upcoming Wine Club
This coming Monday we'll send out our next wine club focusing on Spain. I love Spain.
A reminder that we have plenty of wines available at all times for delivery and shipping. I've been putting together custom cases to ship to thirsty mainlanders and for Orcas deliveries you can always check out this page (Orcas Delivery Wine List) or email me with your wishlist. Thank you for forwarding this to your wine drinking friends as it's making a real difference.
As always I appreciate and value your feedback. Lots of this is new to me too. It's fun to grow together.
Thank you,
Once upon a time..
I was twenty two. It was December and I had landed in London the month before. I'd purchased a rastafarian hat in Camden Town, wandered the Tate Modern and boogied with Fatboy Slim down in Brighton. Realizing the British Pound was in fact not the fairest of them all, and falling out of love with malt vinegar, I hightailed it to Paris. I protested random issues with French students, crushed baguettes and stinky cheese, sprinted up the Eiffel Tower and explored the alleyways of Montmartre. France was fun and curious place. But still a bit cold. My hostel was a hotbed of afghan hash and radical notions and I teamed up with Ivan from Mexico City and Mary from Iowa and headed down to Bordeaux for card games, cheap wine and Radiohead on a cassette tape. It was December in Northern Europe. A steady grey drizzle, to close your eyes was to be in Seattle. We were too young to appreciate Bordeaux. Ivan jumped the coop for warmer pastures and Mary and I headed South.
I had been looking forward to Spain after reading a bunch of Hemingway but had no idea what to expect. Death in the Afternoon had been impactful. Perhaps I would fight bulls! We arrived in San Sebastián on a sunny afternoon, dropped our bags and started eating and drinking. My first tapas experience. If you've been to San Sebastián you know. My mind has never been the same. I loved to eat. I loved to drink. So did they. My people! And these people knew how to live. Children played in the streets after dark. Groups of older men sauntered through the hills. Families chattered without pausing for breath. Even the dogs were happy. The air was alive. People were living. We made friends and soaked it in. The experience bore a hole to the core. We went down to Madrid. I took a ton of art history classes at UW and Velásquez, Goya and Dalí jumped off the walls at the Prado. Off to Sevilla. The music! The size of the paella pans! Too much sherry. I wandered through orange groves in Valencia. I ran into Bryn Rueb from Orcas the night that Valencia was awarded the World Cup. We drank beer and watched fireworks. Barcelona for a week. Watching the gangs work La Rambla. Researching absinthe. Exploring the colors. That was it. Mind blown. People live like this. This is normal. This is ok. I could live like this?? Spain!
Fast forward a year and a half. My younger sisters were both graduating, Molly from UW and Sophie from Orcas Island High School, and I convinced my parents to let me take them to Spain as a present. We were 24, 22 and 18. What could go wrong? I had to share my discovery. I also had to confirm my suspicions that the last trip was real. My native society was threatening to suck me back in to the dream. I didn't want it. Quandary. We arrived in Spain and went to work. I tried to replicate my previous trip. Hostels, beer, Gaudi, flamenco. The Sisson siblings went wild. Somewhere in the middle I surprised them with a super secret trip to Amsterdam for a weekend. Coffee shops, bike rides, Van Gogh and walks through the district. There are many ways to live a life. Three weeks later we parted ways in Grenada. I stayed behind at the hostel to work in exchange for future accommodation. The sisters had their pockets picked by a gypsy on the way to the airport. It went down in the annals. Epic.
I went back to teach English for "VaughanTown" in the tiny village of El Barco de Ávila. The program gathered English speakers, with different dialects, from around the world (Canada, South Africa, Malaysia, etc), for an intensive set of classes. The goal was to assist Spanish professionals in recognizing differences in the English language to help improve their global interactions. We had doctors, CEO's and nuclear scientists one on one for multiple blocks a day. At twenty four I was the youngest instructor and gleaned invaluable lessons on life from the wise and seasoned group that surrounded me. Upon completion I journeyed north to explore Galicia with two senior teachers, Sally from Dallas and Neil from Australia. We discovered that in the Northwest of Spain they drink whisky, play the bagpipes and enjoy the greatest octopus in the world. Three's company and my travel companions and I shared a chapter of many laughs. I still keep in touch with both of them and Neil visited me in Seattle years later. He was almost 70 and I couldn't keep up. Australians. They went in their respective directions and I rented a car and explored the wine regions of Rías Baixas before driving down to Portugal and flying to Morocco (Just wait..). Another sketch. I also made the decision that I would like to work for a Spanish winery or importer in the future.
Many trips later (Every time I went to Europe I'd find an excuse to bump over to the peninsula) and now I'm living in Las Vegas. Let that sink in. Elisabeth Shue and Dr. Gonzo collide. My building had an infinity pool on the roof, the closest restaurant was the Aria, I had mandatory valet service and sometimes when I wandered down to fetch the mail I'd stumble over models posing with Maseratis in my lobby wearing nothing but body paint. Who needs reality TV? My friend Laine Boswell had been working with a Spanish winery, Bodegas Ontañon in Rioja, and having worked with their portfolio in Seattle I was quick to add them to the wine list at The Bellagio. Several months into the position I visited the property with Laine, was introduced to the family and walked the vineyards. There was no smoke or mirrors, no games, and no spinning cherries. Living on the strip in Las Vegas was extreme. I was selling wild bottles of wine to Chinese politicians, Mexican gangsters and Beverly Hill's finest. There weren't a lot of wine geeks, most didn't care, they bought the bottles because they could. I became familiar with that phrase every sommelier loves, "Bring me something good, price isn't a concern." That opens a can of worms when you're sitting in a restaurants at The Bellagio. I tasted some of the rarest and most expensive wines in the world (Alas, I missed the opportunity to try the Romanée Conti we had on the list for $45,000 and $68,000) but continued to miss the dirt, the history and the authenticity of the wine world. The reasons I had chosen this career in the first place.
Shortly after, Laine and Perez-Cuevas family offered me a position with the winery and I gave my notice. I spent the next couple of years traveling to Spain for meetings, research and client excursions. We'd split time between Rioja, Ribera del Duero and San Sebastían (!!). We'd eat and drink and laugh and repeat. Laine, Kat, Katy and I in Ballard and the family and friends in Rioja. Here's a peek at that life with Bodegas Ontañon. It was a dream job. In twelve years I had come full circle. That was the last position I worked before my current endeavor and I'll forever have fond memories in my heart. I can't wait to go back.
So many stories, so little time. We'll be featuring Spanish wines for our wine club on Monday and we'll offer them many more times in the coming years. Drinking Spanish wine transports me back. It's magical. I love Spain.
Cole
APRIL 23rd, 2020
Good morning! I realize that this new wine club may seem a little strange to those of you accustomed to navigable websites, glossy brochures and the Woodinville warehouse district. Perfect. Here on Orcas Island we'd have it no other way!
There's going to be a lot of free flowing throughout these early chapters as it's probably clear that most of this is being made up as we go along. This is due to several things.
One: Because I find it to be more fun and exciting this way. "Fun" and "Exciting" are two important words in my lexicon. I seek them out at all cost.
Two: I'm working hard to support the little guys. Importers, distributors, wineries and everyone in the small(er) business category. I'll continue to prioritize them when possible.
Three: I'm truly trying to understand what types of wines each of you prefers. Keep sending notes, pictures and texts regarding your likes and dislikes which allows me to take personal notes (DBWC is a one person operation at at this point so the communication is pretty direct) and tailor future selections. It would be wild if you loved every single wine in this club but it's a super subjective arena and I don't expect you to. There is some risk involved (does anything great lack that factor?) and this game is an investment in your long term happiness. If you'd like, we can gain a better understanding of the styles you find most pleasurable while simultaneously experimenting and expanding your palate. Or you can just enjoy your glass of wine, relax and be thankful. Both are equally wonderful.
Ok, here's a quick travel segue. Feel free to skip to the actual wine content below. I think I'll just start throwing in random stories to keep you on your toes.
Two months ago I was in the state of Chiapas in Southern Mexico (on the border with Guatemala) in a little village called "San Juan Chamula." I'd traveled there to check out a peculiar little church that had come up in research. My companions were an older guide (who had been expelled from the community when she was a teenager) and a driver who doubled as our bodyguard. Chamula is high up in the mountains and it was a gorgeous bluebird day. When we arrived at the main square in front of the church I was told to leave my phone in my pocket as they were strictly banned by the villagers. Serious misfortune could befall anyone seen snapping pictures, especially if that person in questions was a gringo. We were moving quickly as the area is a major hub for narco-trafficking and even the locals refuse to stay after sunset. I walked into this church (which is detailed here in the NY Times) which is in the middle of the village. The first thing you notice are the thousands of candles twinkling in every corner. Then the realization that the floor is covered with a thick layer of fresh pine needles. Once your eyes adjust you can make out small groups of people huddled in circles passing around bottles of Pox (a local corn spirit, made in the same manner as whiskey). Everyone speaks, chants and prays in the native dialect. I watched an older woman break the neck of a chicken and rub the body over an older man in some type of healing ritual. Then she sacrificed another one. Everyone was taking shots of Pox. Young and old. Fear and loathing, Chamula style. Mystical ceremonies. This was whacky indeed. I returned to San Cristobal and drank myself some Pox (I needed it, what a trip), ate some tacos and watched old Eddie Murphy SNL at my AirBNB. I'd like to import Pox someday. And bring some locals up from Chamula to provide some context. That would be a fun summer event on an Orcas farm! Anyhow, a memory that stuck and I thought I'd share. I blame social distancing. Ok, let's talk about wine club!
THIS WEEK PLEASE SUBMIT YOUR ORDERS BY SUNDAY APRIL 26th AT 5PM. These wines will be available for pick-up or delivery on Orcas beginning Friday April 24th and for shipping on Monday April 27th.
Today we're featuring three decidedly different styles of wine. Those from Les Doux Moulins are light, fresh and austere. Delicious values that scream "Printemps!" (Francophile friends rejoice). Massaya is one of the most dynamic wineries in Lebanon. Slightly rustic with incredible fruit and a beautifully complicated history that deserves to be heard. And JB Neufeld. A young winemaker who makes unapologetically powerful and age worthy Cabernet Sauvignons from his native Yakima soil. A little something for everyone.
THE WINES:
ROSÉ: 2018 Les Deux Moulins Rosé de Loire: $15.30/$17
WHITE: 2018 Les Deux Moulins Sauvignon Blanc: $15.30/$17
RED: 2018 Les Deux Moulins Pinot Noir: $15.30/$17
WHITE: 2017 Massaya Blanc: $20.70/$23
RED: 2017 Massaya "Le Columbier:" $20.70/$23
RED: 2017 JB Neufeld Yakima Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: $35.90/$39
RED: 2017 JB Neufeld Two Blondes Cabernet Sauvignon: $40.50/$45
RED: 2015 JB Neufeld Old Goat Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: $55.80/$62
(The first number is the 10% off 6+ mixed bottle price)
1) LES DEUX MOULINS, Loire Valley France
This is the personal project of Joshua Adler the founder of Paris Wine Company, an importer based in New York. I tasted through the wines a couple of weeks ago on a sunny day in Eastsound and was instantly transported to Paris. I was eating shellfish and listening to an accordion at a table on a busy sidewalk. Walter Mitty style! The wines were bright, fresh, lively and balanced with pure fruit and minerality. If you're looking for easy to drink, value priced house wines for the spring these should seal the deal. Low in alcohol, pure in fruit and very quaffable.
ROSÉ: 2018 Rosé de Loire - $15.30/$17
This is dry Loire Valley rosé that is crisp, fresh, and fruity. It's made with 80% Grolleau (which is an obscure grape found in the Loire Valley) and the remainder is Gamay Noir and Cabernet Franc. It's light, easy to drink, and refreshing. I think it would be phenomenal with some smoked salmon, preserved lemon and a spicy green salad.
WHITE: 2018 Sauvignon Blanc - $15.30/$17
"Bright, crisp Sauvignon Blanc that drinks way above its price-point. The fruit is very bright and lively as well, notes of lime, gooseberry and a subtle grassiness. It's a wonderful midway-style that will appeal to fans of New Zealand-style Sauvignon Blanc as well as Sancerre. Goes With: Fish, shellfish, salads, anything light and fresh."
RED: 2018 Pinot Noir - $15.30/$17
The fruit that goes into the Deux Moulins cuvée is a blend of Pinot Noir from the Loire Valley and the Languedoc. That's an unusual marriage but it really works here. The wine is light in color with notes of wild strawberry and rose petals. It's incredibly easy to drink. This would be stellar served slightly chilled with some cold roast chicken, dipped in aioli, after doing a little lawn work. On a Monday. At noon. In the time of Corona.
2) MASSAYA, Bekaa Valley Lebanon
One of our first tastings when we opened the shop in the late summer of 2017 was with Sami Ghosn. Massaya was founded in 1998 by Sami and his brother Ramzi, in partnership with Daniel Brunier of renowned Chateauneuf-du-Pape producer Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe and Dominique Hebrard of Chateau Cheval Blanc. We often refer to European wines as "Old World" and every other wine region as "New World" but Sami refers to Lebanon as the "Ancient World." They've been growing grapes forever in his country. He is a tireless ambassador for Lebanon and we have worked with his wines ever since that tasting. Selling Lebanese wines isn't easy. But it sure is rewarding. There's a bit more about Massaya in this short piece in The Atlantic.
WHITE: 2017 Massaya Blanc - $20.70/$23
"Fruit for Massaya Blanc grows on the foothills of the Mount Lebanon mountain range at soaring altitudes of 1,200 - 1,600 meters (4,000 - 5,000 feet) above sea level. The blend is comprised of equal parts Obeidi, Rolle (Vermentino), Clairette, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay, all coming from an average of 20-year-old vines. Grapes are hand-picked and brought back to the Faqra winery in small crates, where they are direct pressed and fermented in a combination of foudres and demi-muids. The cuvée is bottled after eight months of aging on the lees, which creates a balanced and textured wine full of white flower and citrus notes." I like to pair this with middle-eastern food. Break out some pita, spreads and exotic spices. Also cucumber salad.
RED: 2017 "Le Columbier" - $20.70/$23
35% Cinsault, 35% Grenache, 15% Syrah & 15% Tempranillo.
"There's more than a touch of French influence in the Massaya wines, especially the Rhone Valley, but in combination with the unique climate and ideal growing conditions of the Bekaa Valley where their vineyards are all over 1000m in altitude. Their new winery, opened in 2014, is at 1750m above sea-level on Mount Lebanon and overlooks Faqra, the world's highest altitude Roman temple. The Colombier red is a great introduction to the range, and indeed to Lebanese wines: sweet violet scented, with ripe, smooth cherry and blackberry fruit, a touch of dark chocolate and a distinctive slightly spicy finish." This is great with grilled meat. It's medium bodied and fresh. I'd go with slow roasted goat. That's my new jam.
3) JB NEUFELD, Yakima Valley Washington
I first met Justin Neufeld years ago at Taste Washington. Many of you attended our event with him last year at Buck Bay when he and his wife Brooke joined us for the evening under the tent. Justin is a Yakima native that still manages to fly under the radar but that won’t last for long. He makes tiny amounts of wine (less than 200 cases of the Old Goat) and the rest of the country is beginning to notice and snap up allocations. As are the local influencers. Over the last year I’ve had several colleagues (Aaron Snyderman, wine director at The Metropolitan Grill and Jackson Rohrbaugh former sommelier at Canlis) singing Justin’s virtues as one of the top quality to price ratio Cabernets in the state. Those kinds of compliments get around quick. Justin focuses solely on Cabernet Sauvignon from vineyards around the Yakima Valley. That’s it. He has three different bottlings made with grapes from highly coveted vineyards including Two Blonds, Artz, DuBrul and Red Willow. These are big, ripe, serious wines with a healthy dose of oak and gripping tannins that can age for a long time. In past blind tastings they’ve crushed a lot of wines at much higher price points. If you decide to drink these wines now I’d highly recommend decanting them first and picking up a nice piece of red meat for the grill. This is a great candidate for stashing a mixed case away in the cellar. You’ll thank us later.
RED: 2017 Yakima Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: $35.90/$39
“Also all Cabernet, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Yakima Valley reveals a deep purple/ruby color to go with a more fruit forward bouquet of black raspberries, flowers, and spice, with a subtle marine-like note developing with time in the glass. Elegant, medium-bodied, and supple, it’s a terrific value and should keep for a good decade, although there’s no need to age this.”- 91 points Jeb Dunnuck of Wine Advocate (This review is of the 2016 vintage. Today we are offering the 2017, which was recently released and has not yet been reviewed)
RED: 2017 Two Blondes Cabernet Sauvignon: $40.50/$45
“Aged 22 months in 75% new French oak, the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Two Blondes (100% Cabernet) has an attractive herbal, coffee-like character as well as loads of black fruits. It’s plush and full-bodied, with a good finish. It should keep for at least 8-10 years.”- 90 points Jeb Dunnuck Wine Advocate
RED: 2015 Old Goat Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: $55.80/$62
“Cassis, scorched earth, graphite, and cedar notes all emerge from the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Old Goat, which is all Cabernet Sauvignon aged in new oak. This rich, full-bodied effort hits the palate with tons of fruit and richness, yet is tight, compact, and tannic. It certainly has loads of potential, though, but I wouldn’t think about opening a bottle for another 4-5 years”- 91 points, Jeb Dunnuck Wine Advocate
APRIL 14th, 2020
This week we are offering our house wines, The Orcas Project, at a 20% discount when you buy 6 or 12 bottles. It's our annual spring sale and an important part of our business. And the discounts allow you to stock up for the sunny weeks ahead! You can mix and match bottles and we will ship or deliver to your front door.
A quick refresher on The Orcas Project...
This is a collaboration that was put together back in 2015 while I was living in Ballard. It came to be at roughly the same time as Doe Bay Wine Company (my original concept was a consulting company) and was based on several models that I'd studied and worked with in the past. The first was Long Shadows, a Washington winery that partners with different winemakers around the world to produce a series of wines grown in our local regions. The other was the classic négociant model of Europe, primarily when utilized in Burgundy and the Rhone Valley. Lastly, the mezcal culture of Southern Mexico where I've spent considerable time over the last decade. The Mezcaleros (producers) in the villages will often make mezcal for multiple Mezcalerias (restaurants/bars) in Oaxaca and these establishments proudly credit the farmers for their work.
In the early stages of the project I was still working for the Spanish winery Bodegas Ontañon and had recently moved back to Seattle from Las Vegas. Traveling to Rioja several times a year I was spending a fair amount of time with Tempranillo, Graciano and Garnacha grapes and that seemed like a great place to start. So I called my friend Javier Alfonso and asked if we could work on this project together. Javier is a talented winemaker and aerospace engineer by trade who's originally from Spain. We had been in tasting groups together for a number of years. This is THE winemaker you want on your side if you're looking to work with Spanish varietals in Washington. We ended up tasting through barrels and bottling three wines from the 2016 vintage. And so it began..
I continued to reach out to a handful of winemakers over the last couple of years and have been honored to partner with some incredible talent around Northwest. When looking for partners I try to focus on people that I've known and worked with over the course of my career. I like working with smaller wineries and experimental operations. Collaborators have included winemakers Morgan Lee, Chris Peterson, Aaron Lieberman, Chad Stock, Travis Maple and we have several more that will be announced in the near future.
Each of our labels was illustrated by Orcas Island artists, several of whom I grew up and attended high school with. Carlin Hayworth, Jake (Kawika) McGuire and Darlene Gait have all played an integral part in the project. Each of the illustrations represents a different winemaker that we work with. For example, all of the raccoon labels are wines that are made by Javier, etc. We will be adding more island artists to our lineup.
At the moment, our wines are only available for retail purchase here at Doe Bay Wine Company, either in the shop or online. We do work with a handful of restaurants around the San Juan Islands and a couple friends in Seattle. In the future we may expand on this but for the time being it's still special if you happen to see a bottle of The Orcas Project. There aren't too many degrees of separation!
Please let me know if you have any questions and thank you for all of your support. We will resume our normal wine club next week. Cole
SPARKLING: Blanc de Blancs 2017 - $26.40/$33
ROSÉ: Pinot Noir Rosé 2018 - $18.40/$23
WHITE: Chardonnay 2017 - $15.20/$19
WHITE: Pinot Gris 2018 - $18.40/$23
RED: Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre Blend 2017 - $15.20/$19
RED: Pinot Noir 2017 - $20/$25
RED: Graciano 2016 - $23.20/$29
RED: Merlot 2016 - $31.20/$39
SPARKLING: Blanc de Blancs 2017 - Sale $26.40/$33
Winemaker: Aaron Lieberman
Region: Chalice Vineyard, Willamette Valley AVA, Oregon
This is our first sparkling wine from Chalice vineyard which is located in Cottage Grove, south of Eugene. It's a vineyard that's located high up in the hills and the fruit that that comes from it is sublime. This is 100% Chardonnay and considered a "Brut Nature" which means that no sugar was added during the dosage. It is the driest style of sparkling wine and was made in the same style as Champagne. It stayed on its lees for 15 months and has beautiful aromas of green apples and almonds. A slight touch of lime zest and brioche. Very balanced and Regan things it's the best wine in our lineup. Should be great this time of year while sitting on the deck.
ROSÉ: Pinot Noir Rosé 2018 - Sale $18.40/$23
Winemaker: Aaron Lieberman
Region: Chalice Vineyard, Willamette Valley AVA, Oregon
This has been a summer favorite over the last two years. It's 100% Pinot Noir with zippy acidity that clocks in at only 12.5% alcohol. It's fermented and aged entirely in stainless steel and very dry. We let the skins ferment a bit longer to bring out some of the beautiful cherry color and enhance the floral aromatics. Lots of wild strawberries and spring flowers on the nose which veer into sweet cranberry and rhubarb on the palate. If you like dry, austere, refreshing pink wines then this just might be your new favorite bottle!
WHITE: Chardonnay 2017 - Sale $15.20/$19
Winemaker: Travis Maple
Region: Yakima Valley AVA, Washington
This is the only Chardonnay we currently make for this project and it's grounded firmly in the European style. From one of the older vineyards in Yakima the grapes are ripe but not over the top. The wine sees just 10% new oak which adds a touch of spice and helps to round out the mouthfeel. The fruit veers towards yellow apples and green pears and there's a touch of hazelnut. Smooth and easy with great acidity. This isn't a creamy, buttery chardonnay but reminiscent of a wine from the Macon in France. If you like Chablis (or even Sauvignon Blanc) you should try this.
WHITE: Pinot Gris 2018 - Sale $18.40/$23
Winemaker: Aaron Lieberman
Region: Willamette Valley AVA, Oregon
This is the ripest, most tropical wine that we make. Pinot Gris can fall all over the spectrum, from bone dry to unctuously sweet and this is closer to the dry side. It has notes of ripe fruit cocktail, honeyed pear and a slight touch of sweetness that the acidity really balances out. It's lower in alcohol which makes it a great aperitif. It's a great pairing with creamy, soft cheese and fruit preserves.
RED: Syrah/Grenache/Mourvèdre Blend 2017 - Sale $15.20/$19
Winemaker: Travis Maple
Region: Yakima Valley AVA, Washington This is 80% Syrah, 10% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre from north of Prosser in the Yakima Valley. I've been working with Travis on blends for a number of years and love the Syrah from this vineyard site. It has big dark brambly fruit (blueberry and blackberry) and a pronounced black pepper and smoke note. It smells a lot like wines from the Rhone Valley in France. The fruit is luscious and ripe, definitely new world, but the palate is more rustic with the spice, herb and roasted meat notes. Balanced and at a great point in its development this is one of the best values in our lineup.
RED: Pinot Noir 2017 - Sale $20/$25
Winemaker: Aaron Lieberman
Region: Willamette Valley AVA, Oregon We ended up blending this Pinot Noir at our shop. Aaron sent a set of barrel samples overnight and we did the blending trials after work. Our final blend is a light ruby color with powerful aromatics of candied cherry, violets and smoke. There's a slight touch of French oak (15%) which brings some vanilla, maraschino and licorice notes into play and the palate highlights the ripeness of the fruit. A light and refreshing version of Pinot Noir. This can be served slightly chilled and is great with spring cuisine and seafood.
RED: Graciano 2016 - Sale $23.20/$29
Winemaker: Javier Alfonso
Region: Upland Vineyard, Snipes Mountain AVA, Washington Graciano is a grape that is normally found in Northern Spain (primarily the Rioja region) where it's blended with Tempranillo and Garnacha to create the classic red Rioja blend. It's brawnier than Tempranillo, with more color, tannin, alcohol and acidity, and is typically very spicy. There's a touch of oak but it's well integrated. This was the first planting in Washington State and it's really quite rare to see this varietal. 99% of people have never heard of it (including those in Spain!). That rustic edge makes it a favorite for grilled meats and it's fun to drink something new. We describe it as a "cross between Cabernet and Zinfandel" which doesn't do it justice but gives you an idea as to the taste profile. A very fun wine.
RED: Merlot 2016 - Sale $31.20/$39Winemaker: Chris Peterson
Region: Red Willow Vineyard, Yakima Valley AVA, Washington We've only worked with Merlot this one year and that was because we had a killer combination. Chris was the winemaker at Delille Cellars for many years (and now owns Avennia in Woodinville) and we tasted several barrels of Red Willow Merlot with him. This is one of my favorite vineyards in the state and might be the best Merlot site we have. The vines were planted in 1989 and 1990 and the fruit is dark, rich and concentrated. The wines was aged for 18 month in French oak (33% new) so along with the dark plum and blackberry notes there is vanilla, cinnamon and toffee. The tannins are firm and the finish is long. This is a world class Merlot that will surprise many of you. Smooth and decadent.
APRIL 7th
Our wine club is pretty casual at the moment (kind of like us?) but for those who are new please feel free to refresh yourselves with our format by clicking here.
We will be moving into a bi-weekly format moving forward (the next wine club email will be sent out over the week of April 20th). Every week is intense for all of us. Right? You can still order wine whenever you'd like and we'll send or deliver it to you!
This week we're featuring wines from two iconic Italian wineries, Malvira and La Spinetta. I've been working with these producers for over twenty years which is pretty wild to realize. We had the opportunity to visit both wineries in Piedmont last year which only served to reinforce my appreciation for the respective families and their styles of winemaking.
Earlier this week I called up Liz Davar, one of my dear friends from Las Vegas who has lived in Italy and worked with these families for years, and she provided some great insight into just how special (and in several instances rare) these wines are. She also provided plenty of laughs. I've woven her story into the narrative below.
Giorgi Rivetti and Roberto Damonte grew up as childhood friends and apprenticed under Angelo Gaja, one of Italy's most legendary winemakers. Their vineyards are farmed organically and in many cases biodynamically. Giorgio has an expensive habit of buying older vineyards as he can't stand to see them torn up. Roberto is passionate about single vineyard expressions. We love all of these things. Sustainable and conscientious farming and winemaking.
Malvira is located in the region of Roero which is just north of the more famous regions of Barolo and Barbaresco. The winery was founded in the 1950's by Giuseppe Damonte, one of the pioneers of Roero, and is now run by his two sons, Massimo and Roberto. Massimo manages the vineyards while Roberto manages the cellar. Roberto's son Giacomo is transitioning into his father's role and took the time to show us around when we visited. The wines for me are built around the fruit. It's a pure and focused expression of the grapes and they taste like they're supposed to. They tend to be bold and juicy which helps balance the Italian rusticity. The are also complimentary and beautiful with food. It's a charming estate with a lively boutique hotel and one of the best restaurants in the village. During our visit we were flying around the mountain roads all day tasting Nebbiolo and couldn't wait to get back to the table which was always full of fresh pasta, risotto, truffles, cheese and older vintages. The Piedmontese know how to enjoy life. My kind of people!
La Spinetta started in 1977 and built their reputation on Moscato d'Asti. At one point they had six vineyards planted with the Moscato Bianco grape. Italians and the world couldn't get enough of this wine and the family continued to expand. They now farm multiple vineyards in Piedmont and Tuscany while continuing to look for older vineyards they can help resurrect. With the emphasis on old vines it's common to find a high percentage of these grapes in their entry level wines, a platform normally reserved for the younger vines in a vineyard. It increases the complexity and offers great value. The style of La Spinetta tends to be a bit more fruit forward and polished than some of the old school producers. Rich fruit, with a touch of oak and integrated tannins create a balanced lineup that's respected and beloved around the world.
I hope that you enjoy these wines as much as I do. Let me know if you have any questions at all and have fun! Cole
ROSÉ: La Spinetta Il Rose Di Casanova 2018 - $19
WHITE: Malvira Roero Arneis 2018 - $20
WHITE: La Spinetta Vermentino 2018 - $22
RED: La Spinetta Il Nero di Casanova Sangiovese 2015 - $22
RED: Malvira Roero Rosso 2017 - $27
RED: Malvira Langhe Rosso St. Guglielmo 2014 - $33
RED: La Spinetta Barolo Garretti 2015 - $75
FRIZZANTE: La Spinetta Moscato d'Asti Bricco Quaglia 2018 - $22
ROSÉ: La Spinetta Il Rose Di Casanova 2018 - $19/17.10 (Tuscany)
This has been one the most popular rosés in the shop the last couple of years and many of you reading this have fallen head over heels. It comes from a 6 ha parcel in Tuscany and is a blend of 50% Sangiovese and 50% Prugnolo Gentile. Very pale in color, dry with zippy acidity. This is a sublime introduction to spring! Liz mentioned that she prefers to drink this wine the year after its released as the acid has integrated and softened. "Light orange-pink intense tangerine, white peach and strawberry scents complicated by suave floral and mineral shows impressive clarity and stony cut to the juicy citrus and red fruit flavors, which deepen steadily on the back half, the floral note comes back strong on a very long, penetrating finish that shows highly appealing silkiness and stony lift."
WHITE: Malvira Roero Arneis 2018 - $20/18 (Piedmont)
Arneis is the most important white grape of the Roero and many believe its name is derived from the local dialect for "Little Rascal" as it is notoriously difficult to grow. Malvira is one of the top producers in Italy of the grape and they've been on the forefront of reviving its presence on wine lists around the world. These are really easy to drink wines, full of fresh peach notes, a slight grass component and soft minerality. This Arneis is fermented in stainless steel and has a clean, bright nose and raspy texture. If you're on the hunt for a new go-to white this sunny season look no further. Locals love it with asparagus or rabbit and it pairs seamlessly with fresh greens and garden vegetables. "Lifted and fresh on the nose with notes of white blossoms and snappy fruits. On the palate, the wine gives way to stone fruits and hints of melon before finishing with a zip of refreshing acidity. The finish is clean but long and showcases this classic vintage perfectly."
WHITE: La Spinetta Vermentino 2018 - $22/19.80 (Tuscany)
Vermentino is known by many names around the wine world: "Pigato," "Favorita," and "Rolle" are a few of its synonyms. It's a fruity, fresh, dry white grape that has beautiful aromatics of peach, lime zest and white flowers. When Liz heard we were offering this she couldn't believe it, apparently it's sold out around most of the country. It's one of the greatest wines to pair with shellfish (especially oysters). Giorgio is a prolific consumer of said oysters (like "three dozen a day" kind of prolific, huh?) and rumor has it he began making this wine primarily to ensure he had enough Vermentino to pair with his favorite little bivalves. Italians also love it in Sardinia and Corsica and you can watch them consuming it on the coast while throwing down plates of seafood all summer long. If you like Albariño and Grüner Veltliner this could possibly be your new favorite wine. James Suckling gave this 93 points saying "Bright citrus, herbs and meringue are all on offer here. Medium-to full-bodied with good density to the center palate. Good acidity drive, too. Finishes quite long."
RED: La Spinetta Il Nero di Casanova Sangiovese 2015 - $22/19.80 (Piedmont)
This Sangiovese is aged for one year in French-oak barrels and comes from 40 year old vines in the estate vineyard which is located just south of Pisa. It's bottled unfined and unfiltered and it's pretty special that we can offer wine from the 2015 vintage with bottle age to our list. The tannins have softened out and the aromatics are beguiling. For all the Chianti Classico fans this is veering towards the modern side with plush fruit and a slight oak influence. It's really pretty. "This first full production vintage from our 2015 Estate Vineyard planting is truly inspiring. Vibrant with an aromatically dynamic character; beguiling spices are balanced on a lively palate of crunchy red fruits ranging from pomegranate and red ripe gooseberry to black cherry. Stems contribute to some grip and spice characteristics. Light and lively, yet intense and packed with energizing vitality, the black raspberry finish that will entice you to reach for more."
RED: Malvira Roero Rosso 2017 - $27/$24.30 (Piedmont)
This is one of my favorite wines that Malvira makes. It's 100% Nebbiolo which is aged for 20 months in French oak barrels and then for 12 months in bottle. For those of you who love Barolo and Barbaresco this wine gives you the structure, fruit and long life for a third of the price. It comes from two of Roero's prized vineyards which have a sandy and clay soil structure and produce the prized floral notes. On the palate the sweet strawberries and tobacco give way to a long, dry finish that lingers on your palate. I think this is phenomenal with BBQ and anything grilled. And it's about that time! "Intense ruby red in color. On the nose there’s violets, strawberries, raspberries, and black currants. The palate is persistent with approachable tannins, intense fruit and hints of vanilla."
RED: Malvira Langhe Rosso St. Guglielmo 2014 $33/29.70 (Piedmont)
This is a blend of 70% Barbera, 25% Nebbiolo and 5% Bonarda Piemontese that has been aged 18-24 months in French oak barrels and 12 months in bottle. It's an extracted version of Barbera. It has that dense, dark fruit and acidity but real stuffing to it. Some of that comes from the tannins that the Nebbiolo brings to the blend but most of it is the addition of old vine Barbera. This is great with pasta and red sauce but you can also drink with red meat. "Dense ruby red in color with notes of blackberries, prunes, and tobacco. On the palate it’s powerful but velvety with notes of blackberry, vanilla, and leather."
RED: La Spinetta Barolo Garretti 2015 - $75/67.50 (Piedmont)
This is the property where Giorgi lives and its situated along the northern border of Barolo in the region of Grinzane Cavour. This is where "Barolo Campe" comes from (a bottle that retails for $180+) and considered one of the top crus in the district. The grapes for Garretti come from the younger vines of Campe and are 45-50 years old. This is a pure expression of nebbiolo that's loaded with minerality, savory herbs, tobacco, licorice and sweet berries. It's a serious wine that you can drink after decanting or tuck away while it develops. "The tar and roses are certainly here on the nose with ripe fruit, too. Full-bodied, dense and chewy with beautiful fruit and length. Chewy, polished and compact. Needs two or three years to soften. Drink in 2022." 94 points - James Suckling
SPARKLING: La Spinetta Moscato d'Asti Bricco Quaglia 2018 - $22/19.80 (Piedmont) Funny enough, this is what put La Spinetta on the map. Many of you know how much we love Moscato d'Asti. Low in alcohol, frizzante ("slightly sparkling") and full of fresh flowers, honeysuckle and white peach flavors. Slightly sweet with bubbles which makes it one of my go to dessert pairings. Also with breakfast! It's always good to have a couple of these on hand when the weather is warm. "A crisp, sparkling, delicately sweet bouquet followed by a remarkable fresh palate featuring brilliant peach and pear flavors. Traditionally a dessert wine, but also perfect as an aperitif or as an afternoon refreshment with Sunday brunch."
MARCH 30TH
This week we're featuring wines from Syncline Winery in the Columbia Gorge. James and Poppy Mantone started the winery in 1999 and have been crushing it ever since. I have no idea how they still seem to fly under the radar. They've long been darlings of Northwest chefs and sommeliers (the wines are nearly effortless pairings with food) and there's always a bottle or four on the shelves at our shop. If you haven't visited the Columbia Gorge what are you waiting for?! Oh, right, it's ok to wait a little longer. The wine region is stunning. Here's a brief overview from Washington Tasting Room.
Seattle Magazine named James "Winemaker of the year in 2018" saying: "The Columbia Gorge AVA, spanning the Washington and Oregon sides of the Columbia River around Hood River, Oregon, feels very much like the science lab of Northwest winemaking. Many of the most adventurous winemakers and exciting wines being produced in Washington are emerging from the Gorge. The head mad scientist of that lab earns our title of 2018 Winemaker of the Year: James Mantone."
These are some of the most pure, focused and balanced wines in Washington. James used minimal intervention in the vineyard and cellar which results in high acid, clean fruit and extremely drinkable bottles. These are quintessential spring wines. They're also fairly geeky (I can safely say that most of you don't drink a lot of Picpoul?). And tiny production with most of the wines below being produced in quantities of less than 300 cases.
The 2019 vintage just arrived in the warehouse of their Seattle distributor on Friday and I reached out to James that morning to see if we could discuss the new wines. James and Poppy are people that we really like (see a trend?) and James responded, of course, how about tonight? He opened a bottle of his Picpoul, I opened a bottle of his Gamay and we had a great conversation. We're going to do a Syncline video at some point. My vision is this: After you receive your wines next week we'll set up an instagram or facebook live session with James. You pick one of your wines to open and we'll all get to know each other and ask questions while sipping something delicious.
The first portion of the descriptions below are James and Poppies tasting notes for each wine while the second paragraph is my jumbled attempt to take notes..
Have fun..
ROSÉ: 2019 - $23 x
WHITE: Grüner Veltliner 2019 - $23 x
WHITE: Picpoul 2017 - $23 x
RED: Gamay Noir 2018 - $34 x
RED: Subduction Red 2018 - $23 x
RED: Mourvèdre 2017 - $36 x
SPARKLING: "Scintillation" 2017 - $44 x
ROSÉ: 2019 - $23
"Our creation of this wine is in direct response to our love of crisp, dry Rosé. The color is a striking pale salmon pink with pure aromas of early spring strawberries, and flavors of citrus zest and watermelon rind. Delightfully fresh, complex and focused, this is a most versatile and food friendly wine. Finishing completely dry, this is as serious as Rosé gets."
James is inspired by the great rosé wines of Provence and happily declared that they have an aging program in their cellar for magnums of Domaine Tempier Rosé. They put them away to age for 5-7 years before drinking. Yay! This is primarily Mourvèdre blended with Cinsault and Grenache. "It delivers immediate summer gratification but turns into something really good with bottle age. If you’re not drinking rosé year round I have to question you! The problem with 12.3% abv is that the bottle goes away before you realize it and the 2019’s are all low alcohol wines."
WHITE: Grüner Veltliner 2019 - $23
"Dry and backed by crisp acidity, this wine shows flavors and aromas of lemon balm, orchard blossoms and melon. A perfect complement to fresh chilled shellfish and sushi, asparagus and artichokes."
The classic grape of Austria is starting to gain a following here in Washington. "Low crop yields and 40-50% overnight skin contact are things we do to try to eek more texture and weight out of the wine. This is a classic Grüner with grassiness and melon fruits, but not tropical, along with some lentil notes. It's a naturally rich grape and we're really getting it dialed in. It's a natural fit for the foods going off on the island, especially during spring time."
WHITE: Picpoul 2017 - $23
"Bright lemon verbena and key lime blossom aromas and flavors are backed by lively citrus zest and wet stone notes. Bone dry and intensely fresh, this wine is perfect for pairing with shellfish. The overall acid structure and enticing aromas make this a standout wine."
When we started talking about this James excused himself and grabbed a bottle of Picpoul from the fridge to taste. “This year is the lowest alcohol we’ve done. It has ripping acidic and is very lemony. That bit of phenolic structure that comes from the skin coupled with the acidity makes me want to eat clams! All the wines are wild “feral” ferments in the cellar and the stainless steel captures the freshness. This is one of the grapes we really should be growing in eastern Washington. It has never been a better time to be a wine drinker.”
RED: Gamay Noir 2018 - $34
"This first full production vintage from our 2015 Estate Vineyard planting is truly inspiring. Vibrant with an aromatically dynamic character; beguiling spices are balanced on a lively palate of crunchy red fruits ranging from pomegranate and red ripe gooseberry to black cherry. Stems contribute to some grip and spice characteristics. Light and lively, yet intense and packed with energizing vitality, the black raspberry finish that will entice you to reach for more."
James had opened the Picpoul so when we started discussing this I grabbed a bottle from behind my couch and popped it open. I know that a lot you drink Oregon Pinot Noir. Please try this. “I'm super excited about this. The site has never been cultivated. It's intact grassland. Did you know that there are 23 varieties of wildflowers that grow in this area of the gorge and nowhere else in the world? All farming is biodynamic. This wine is fermented and aged in concrete, it's super natural, maybe 70% whole cluster. (Talking about Beaujolais) Not as big and brawny as St. Amour, somewhere between St. Amour and Fleurie, a little bit prettier, he acid isn't as high as as Oregon Gamay and it's super aromatic. We used lots of foot trodding and it was a big learning experience working on dry farming the block. We’re learning a ton, that’s our first big effort, I’m very proud of it." We're all excited about that!
RED: Subduction Red 2018 - $23
"Long inspired by the wines of the Southern Rhone Valley, this is our answer to a Washington version of a Cotes-du-Rhone Villages wine. A blend of classic southern French varieties that are unique and expressive on their own; yet each contributes to create a harmonious whole. This charming, ruby colored wine displays black raspberry, ripe cherry, and spice aromas with bright acidity. The juicy mid-palate and excellent length provides a wine that is compatible with many foods and occasions."
"This wine is a chance to try things out in the vineyard and cellar, to explore what we can do in the vineyards and in the winery. We utilize components from Ranch at the end of the road on Red Mountain, Boushey vineyard, etc. This is not a leftovers kind of wine. We buy more grapes so that we can take chances. Subduction gives us room to do that. We should be making wines that people can afford to drink, not just buy and be afraid to drink because they're too expensive. Wines are made for drinking. You shouldn’t have to spend $50 to have a great bottle of wine. This is our proletariat side 'wine for the people.'"
RED: Mourvèdre 2017 - $36
With Horse Heaven Hill's lush flavors and texture, combined with Red Mountain’s intense structure and aromas, we have created a wine that offers violets, black plum, currant, juicy cherry and savory flavors with hints of black pepper and wet stone. Deep ruby color, a rich layered mouthfeel and brilliant mouthwatering finish complement the intense aromas. This wine is approachable now and will age gracefully for many years. There are only 24 bottles remaining.
"Almost entirely raised in concrete, Mourvèdre is kind of a chameleon grape, you can make a Pinot Noir style or Turley Zinfandel style. We try to walk the line. We want some herbal and some savory aspects without the vegetal notes. We've been opening past vintages and with all the wines we have in our cellar at 8-10 years these are our favorite wines. They are great wines to age. I think a lot of wine can hang on for 10-15 years but does it change or just hold on? Mourvèdre changes, isn’t that why we age wines, to see what happens?"
SPARKLING: "Scintillation" 2017 - $44
"Aromas and flavors of asian pear, green melon and fresh mown hay are embraced by a lively palate of balanced acidity. If you dig deep, some might be able to detect the faint wisp of smokey character that embodies the vintage of the Eagle Creek fire in the Columbia Gorge."
I forgot to ask James his thoughts on this wine. Too much Gamay in my glass :/ Luckily we've been drinking and selling a lot of his sparkling over the last decade. It's 100% Grüner Veltliner. It's light and bright and has a beautiful texture. Sublime both before and after dinner, lunch or breakfast. Great with oysters. The wine was laid down for 18 months en tirage then hand riddled and disgorged in September 2019. No dosage so it's super dry. Just a delightful alcoholic beverage indeed.
MARCH 23RD
For this first offering we chose to feature two of our favorite local importers, Vin2u and Cavatappi (These wines will be available to be picked up, delivered or shipped beginning Friday March 27th).
Vin2U was founded by our friend Eric Swikard in 2015 and his focus has consistently been smaller, family owned, natural minded producers. I’ve known Eric for a number of years and always appreciated his focus on hospitality and his passion for getting to know his producers. He has assembled a portfolio of cutting edge, “natural’ and avant-garde families with a focus on up and coming winemakers. Many of these wineries are being run by the younger generation who are blazing new paths in the industry. This week we are featuring some of the lighter, fresher wines in his portfolio. A majority of Eric’s business has been in top Seattle restaurants and wine bars and you’ve probably had his wines at L’Oursin, Left Bank, Le Caviste and Vinnie's. If you like a funky, raw, unrefined, lighter, lively glasses of wine we think you’ll love this weeks selections.
Cavatappi was started by Peter Dow (also the founder of Café Juanita) in 1995. He partnered with esteemed European producers and assembled one of the most iconic collections of producers in the country. Many of these estates have been making wine the traditional way for generations in venerable regions such as Bordeaux, Rioja, Barolo and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. I worked for Cavatappi for several years and learned an incredible amount. The current management team is led by Jon Marvin, Mike Smith and Dieter Klippstein, who continue to build on the legacy by adding producers such as Raul Perez, Savage Grace and Massaya. Today we are focusing on a combination of classic and contemporary wines. The wines are made using traditional techniques and, for the most part, farmed organically. These selections are heavier and darker than the wines from Vin2U and several have pronounced oak notes. If you prefer your wines a bit more polished then these selections are in your wheelhouse.
SPARKLING: Josep i Pau Brut Nature Semi Disgorged “Chaos” 2016, Catalonia, Spain - $21
Josep I Pau are a father and son winegrowing team (the 15th and 16th generation!) based near Barcelona in Catalonia, Spain. Pau visited Orcas last year and tasted us on this whacky sparkling wine. The grapes are Macabeu and Parellada from 50 year old vines. All native yeast, unfined and unfiltered. It has a layer of yeast in the bottom and it’s recommended that you slowly turn the bottle from top to bottom 3-4 times to incorporate it. Cloudy and fresh. Aromatic. Texture for days. If you drink Veuve Clicquot you may be confused but if enjoy whacky Pet-Nats please open this on the porch. Point it away from yourself (Vin2U)
WHITE: Domaine Oudin 2017 Chablis, France - $26
This a beautiful expression of Chardonnay from Chablis, France. In 1988 Jean-Claude and his wife Christiane relocated from the suburbs to Christiane’s father’s two-hectare vineyard located near the tiny village of Chichée, just south of Chablis. They have recently retired from making wine and their daughter Nathalie has taken over the winemaking reins. Only natural yeasts are used. There is a crystalline purity to this wine and a long mouthwatering finish. It is aged in stainless steel but after resting for a year on its lees develops a creamy texture. Green apple, lemon curd and minerality. This is a classic oyster wine but also delightful with most of the seafood we eat in the Pacific Northwest (Vin2U)
WHITE: Avalanche Fendant 2017, Valais, Switzerland - $23
Last year we visited Switzerland and our dear friends Olivier Roten and Laine Boswell. Olivier is the winemaker at his eponoymous winery and Avalanche is his newest project. The vineyards are stunning. We’ll post a picture soon. Switzerland night not come to mind when you’re thinking about wine regions (one of the reasons being is that they consume most of their wine domestically) but it’s one of the most exciting and emerging regions in Europe. There’s a group of young winemakers pushing forward and Olivier is leading that charge. Here’s the review from Wine Enthusiast “Fendant is a Chasselas wine from the Valais region in Switzerland. This boasts delightful aromas of lemon blossom, fresh lemon zest and wet river rock lifted by a whiff of peppermint. It has a strong backbone of minerality, with pronounced flavors of apple, pear and lemon curd. It's well balanced and shows a crisp, refreshing finish.” It was given 92 points, one of the highest scores ever for a white wine from Switzerland. When in the Valais we drank a lot of this with fondue which is the classic pairing. Grab your little set, light the fire and go to town. Also delightful with Dungeness crab + lemon aioli and fresh white fish (Cavatappi).
WHITE: Domaine Blachon “Tradition” 2016, St Joseph, France - $28
This wine is imported by a gentleman named Alan Sobczak and his company, APS Wine & Spirits. His motto “There is no substitute for quality” rings true to this day. When I worked for Cavatappi he was always one of my favorite people to work the market with. His wines have long flown under the radar and we’ll feature a selection of them in a future offering. This domaine is located in the village of Mauves in the Rhone valley and this wine comes from “Les Oliviers” vineyard. It’s 95% Marsanne and 5% Roussanne and is aged in large oak barrels. This is a rich, full bodied wine with a round and supple texture. Dry, but honeyed, with notes of exotic spices and baked apricots and apples. This is a hedonistic and intense wine. Only 60 cases were imported into the United States! If you like Chardonnay, Viognier and other richer wines go ahead and try this. You can pair this with pan seared scallops, grilled shrimp or esquites! (Cavatappi)
ROSÉ: Ameztoi “Rubentis” Rosé 2019, Getariako Txakolina, Basque Region, Spain - $23
Nothing screams “Summer is coming!” like this rosé. It sells out fast. People go gaga for it. The new 2019 vintage landed in Washington on Thursday! Ignacio Ameztoi is the fifth generation of his family to carry on the tradition of making Txakolina in the province of Getaria, next to San Sebastian. I used to visit San Sebastian several times a year with my team at Bodegas Ontañon (shout out to Jonathan Fleming and Libby Acker!). This was the region’s first pink wine and inspired by the historic claret style wines which were once produced in the area. A large portion of the Hondarrabi Beltza grapes, which are blended with the Hondarrabi Zuri grape, used in the wine were planted in 1840. Says Ignacio “In San Sebastián, you wouldn’t believe how much Txakolina is drunk in the month of August alone, here in Basque country, they drink it year-round. They drink it with meat, too. That’s the culture.” This is a light pink color, slightly sparkling and very dry. It’s light, fruity and acid driven. Notes of sour strawberry and cranberry with beautiful floral notes. Delicious with everything or on its own. Stock up on this now, you might not have another shot (Cavatappi).
RED: Domaine des Hauts Baigneux “Les Pentes” 2016, Loire Valley, France - $23
From the village of Azay-le-Rideau which is located just east of Chinon in the Loire Valley this is a collaboration between longtime friends Nicolas Grosbois and Philippe Mesnier that started in 2013. The wines of this estate are all produced with natural yeast, and bottled with minimal intervention. This is a blend of 60% Cabernet Franc, 20% Gamay, 20% Grolleau which was fermented in concrete and aged in stainless steel. Only 1,000 cases were produced. It’s a juicy, fruity wine (some might call it “quaffable”) with classic cabernet franc aromas of pomegranate and raspberry. Earthy, funky, maybe even some potting soil notes on the palate? A perfect pairing with your garden beds?? This would be wonderful if served slightly chilled as the sun starts to peek out (Vin2U)
RED: BOLD Wine Co Pinot Noir 2018, Monterey County, California - $24
This is the new project of former master sommelier Chris Miller. Chris worked for Canlis in Seattle and wih Greg Harrington at Gramercy Cellars in Walla Walla before setting up camp in California. He works with cooler vineyards around Monterey County and is producing super exciting wines. This Pinot Noir sees 75% whole cluster fermentation with native yeasts. It’s aged 8 months in neutral oak barrels and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Chris put together tasting notes of “crushed raspberry, balsamic strawberry, rhubarb and white mushroom.” Who are we to argue? This is great if you’ve been drinking Willamette Valley Pinot Noir for the last decade and feel like mixing it up. This is sublime with grilled salmon especially if you add a berry coulis (Vin2U)
RED: Baptiste Nayrand “Vésanie Rouge” 2018, Coteaux Lyonnais, France - $26
Baptiste has created a cult following in a short time. We’ll let Paris Wine Company fill you in on the details. “Originally from the area around Lyon, Baptiste created his eponymous domaine from scratch in 2014. Today he has just over 6 hectares of vines, which is the maximum he can farm by himself to maintain the quality he requires. The majority is Gamay in the AOP Coteaux du Lyonnais, a small rather unknown appellation on the outskirts of Lyon between the Beaujolais and the Northern Rhône. Since its inception, the entire domaine has been certified organic. The vineyard is maintained without any chemical products, pesticides, or synthetic fertilizer. Le domaine also uses biodynamic methods with the constant objective to recreate the harmony between the mineral, vegetable, human, and cosmos.” Holy Natural! This is 100% Gamay Noir, aged half in barrel and half in fiberglass tank. 500 cases were produced. A dark color, fuzzy tannin and classic barnyard funk. This is a serious Gamay Noir that could be confused with Syrah. Drink with food. Paired with cheese and charcuterie would make a fine afternoon (Vin2U)
RED: Bodega Noemia de Patagonia “A Lisa” Malbec 2018, Patagonia, Argentina - $21
Another one of my favorite people in the wine industry is Nora Favelukes. She is an educator and consultant who took a group of us on a wild tour of Argentina several years ago (we hopped regions on our private jet). Patagonia really stood out as those of you who’ve visited can relate to. Wild and fierce it’s the frontier for grape growing in the Southern Hemisphere. This Malbec is new to us. It’s not the classic powerhouse that comes to mind when you think of the grape. It’s nuanced and balanced. Almost pretty. It is blended with 10% Merlot and aged for 11 months in 40% old French barrels and 60% in stainless steel vats. James Suckling gave it 93 points saying “A very fresh, juicy and energetic malbec with plenty of ripe plums and red cherries. The texture and lively mouthfeel is impressive. Drink or hold.” We’d drink it with roasted pork (especially from Hailey and Nate at West Beach Farm) or grilled chicken thighs (Cavatappi)
RED: Roucas Toumba "La Grande Terre" 2017, Vacqueyras, France - $26
When we arrived at this tiny estate last year owner/winemaker/handy man Eric Bouletin was fixing old tractors. He took over the property from his father and does everything himself. Everything. We spent an afternoon driving around his vineyards and were touched. Vacqueyras is one of the top villages in the Southern Rhone valley but doesn’t get the attention of its more famous neighbors, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas. These wines are exceptional values and age worthy as well. This is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre and aged in concrete tanks. This is rich dark red wine with good mix of Grenache plum and darker black fruits from Syrah. Notes of leather, black pepper and olives. It has a beautiful smooth texture with integrated tannins. Eric recommends pairing with “beef daube, leg of lamb and cheeses.” If you haven’t made beef daube in a while what are you waiting for?! (Cavatappi)
RED: Upchurch Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon "LTL" 2017, Red Mountain, Washington - $31
Chris Upchurch was a founding partner at Delille Cellars and remains the head winemaker there after twenty-three years. He planted Upchurch Vineyard in 2007 and makes some incredible wines in a style similar to Delille. The “LTL” series stands for “Larger than life” and this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon represents an incredible value coming from Red Mountain. Here’s how Chris describes it - “Notable black, purple, opaque color showcases a deep dark wine with tons of Red Mountain fruit. Black raspberries, plumbs, soft leather, flowers and a cabinet of spices are present in the nose. A big powerful and rich mouthfeel exhibits deep flavors of raspberries, blackberries and toasty oak. Lower tannins and mouthwatering structure make this wine hedonistic and pure with a lengthy finish.” Throw a steak on the grill, open a bottle, dream of baseball and relax. It’s going to be ok (Cavatappi)
RED: Viña Sastre Crianza 2015, Ribera del Duero, Spain - $34
I’ve always loved Tempranillo. Super versatile at the dinner table, interesting with styles ranging from juicy and fresh to structured and dense. When I worked for Bodegas Ontañon (based in Rioja) we spent a lot of time at their property in the Ribera del Duero region, west of Madrid. The Tempranillo here is different than that grown in Rioja. It’s harder, colder, more tannic and powerful. Jesús Sastre is the winemaker and vineyard manager and organic farming and biodynamic principles which is rare in this region. The wine is 100% Tempranillo and aged 14 months in French and American oak barrels. It’s a big, strong wine with a substantial oak presence. A dark core of black fruit frames the pronounced streak of minerality and it’s chewy. Yum. If you like bigger red wines that balance fruit and earth Spain excels in this category. In the region the pair this with “Lechazo” which is milk-fed roasted lamb. They like to showcase its tenderness by cutting it with dinner plates. I’ve enjoyed many an afternoon enjoying this pairing. Instead of flying to Spain you can call up Eric Lum at Lum Family Farm and see what he has available. His lamb is superb! (Cavatappi)
With Dominique Lafon in Meursault 2019. To the left with Guillaume d’Angerville in Volnay 2013.